Identity
Group Members: Anna Finnis
For this review, I will be looking at an image selected by Anna Finnis and an image we both agreed would link well to our theme of ‘Identity’.
When one thinks of Identity, the mind is automatically directed to the idea of the qualities, looks and expressions that make up a person. However, something that is regularly overlooked is how identity can be impacted by numerous external factors including culture, location, media and life experiences. Our identity is something that is considered to be very individual and unique, but in reality how can it be when we are surrounded by a culture and media that is full of “influencers” whose job definition is to persuade others to act based off their recommendations. While “social media enables identity expression, exploration and experimentation”, (The Effect of Social Media on Identity Construction, p85-92) it can result in millions of people following the same exploration and experimentation. This is evident in numerous ways within the fashion industry, with trends and styles constantly changing.
The human nature of following the person in front is portrayed by Issey Miyake, born April 22 1938, in his 1999 Spring/Summer collection. His clothes are described as “light, ageless, trans-seasonal, cross-cultural and ambi-sexual” (Fuse Magazine, Issuu), which fits well with how the modern identity has evolved into something that no longer has any barriers. Miyake’s designs have focused on the concept of ‘a piece of cloth’ (Issey Inc., Issey Miyake Brands). This is evident in his catwalk show with multiple models connected by wearing the same red two-piece, which stretched from model to model. The outcome of this meant that the women were forced to follow the person in front of them, with the model at the start being the one in control. This mirrors how today’s society has developed the habit of ‘following the leader’, mainly through social media and trends.
‘1999 Spring/Summer Collection, Issey Miyake’
Miyake’s design purposely makes each individual model look the exact same, whether that be through the slicked back hair, height or the outfit itself. By following the first woman, no one model looks different or unique. The same can be said about a person’s identity. “Subconsciously or quite intentionally we construct ourselves with the use of clothes”, (Five Collections Tackling the Issue of Identity, sleek-mag.com) and by jumping onto trends or following what the popular influencers are doing and the way people construct their identity through clothes, duplication is a given. Identity has become a fragile concept, easily influenced by what surrounds it, and without realising it, Miyake’s design has displayed it to perfection. The continuous piece of red fabric is controlled by the front and the back, with the front leading the models and the back bringing it to an end, like how one trend stops and another begins. This image shows how as a result of the modern society’s mindset, the idea of a completely unique and different identity has been overshadowed and become very rare to find.
While there is the issue of people’s identity becoming indistinguishable from one to another, there are numerous designers who use fashion as an instrument in identity formation and communication. Jessie Shroyer, a young up and coming American fashion designer used her platform as a member of the Parsons MFA Fashion Design and Society Graduate Collection to scrutinise the American identity and explore the exclusive issue of identity. Shroyer, who similar to Miyake, wanted to be a dancer but then studied philosophy in an attempt to focus on the mind. In line with the popular phrase, “you are what you wear”, Shroyer believed ‘the clothes people wore when they went out were the same as the costumes she wore when she danced’, (Parson MFA Fashion Design and Society 2016 Runway Show, Google Arts & Culture) highlighting how people use their fashion to tell their own stories. Shroyer’s designs showcase how identity within fashion can mean different things for different people. While some follow the crowd, others use it as a means of communication and self expression. Shroyer herself said that “I studied fashion because I had something to say” (Masters of NYC: Jessie Shroyer, 1Granary.com) and a key area that interested her was how people communicate their identity through how they dress.
‘Jessie Shroyer Graduate Collection, Parsons MFA Fashion Design and Society, 2016’
In her collection, Shroyer asked her friends and family to donate pieces of clothing that they associated with their national identity. It was clear how society uses clothes and fashion as a means of communication as the majority of the garments Shroyer used were t-shirts with brand logos spread all over the item of clothing. These were then ripped up and restitched in an attempt to offer ‘a re-definition of American identity’ (Designers Archive, p19). The shredded pieces of fabric within her designs, highlight how she has broken away from the stereotypical identity of an American and reformed her own. This resembles the way people use fashion as a method to communicate their identity including their beliefs and views. Her collection breaks away from the norm and symbolises how clothes and fashion can be used to make a statement. This links back to the issue of how easily influenced our identities can be, but it also suggests that this can be a good thing. Fashion can be used as a way to influence change instead of following the status quo.
As a final observation, identity is still a very fragile and susceptible area and designers have found ways of using this in both a positive and negative manner. In some areas, it is the simple case of follow the leader, however others use it as a platform to voice their opinions. The concept of identity may not be the same as it was a century ago. It has evolved and changed as we have. Fashion is used in the process of forming your own identity, communicating what you feel and influencing those around you.
BIBLIOGRAPHY:
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-1995-ready-to-wear/issey-miyake
https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2016/apr/10/issey-miyake-45-years-at-the-forefront-of-fashion
https://www.isseymiyake.com/en/brands/isseymiyake
https://ideas.repec.org/a/vrs/mjsosc/v8y2017i5p85-92n8.html
https://1granary.com/designers-3/schools/parsons/masters-nyc-jessie-shroyer/
http://www.fashiondesignandsociety.com/jessie-shroyer
http://www.sleek-mag.com/article/five-collections-tackling-the-issue-of-identity/