Yin Xiuzhen’s “Weapons” (2003-2007)

Yin Xiuzhen is a Chinese artist who from 2003 to 2007 had been adding to her textile installation entitled “Weapons”. The installation consists of over twenty large, individual staff-like forms covered in a colourful assortment of fabrics suspended from the ceiling at varying heights. Each is characterised by a similar, wide dome to one end which narrows to a sharp point to the other end. To the audience they appear paradoxically like soft, colourful missiles used for mass destruction as the title “Weapons” would suggest. However, Xiuzhen was inspired by the architectural structure of the Beijing Central Radio and Television Tower which towers over China’s capitol city. The tower looms over the countries citizens as a daunting reminder of the power broadcasting plays in its government holding strict power over its people. Xiuzhen argues this dominance is a “soft power” which is just as deadly as a real missile as it has been used for decades to create fear and suppress defiance among the Chinese people who have been censored and indoctrinated with the countries strict policies. Therefore, the use of stitched, second hand fabrics patchworked together like a cosy around the deadly missile-like shapes highlights how the Chinese government has tried to disguise the dangerous and oppressive undertones of their broadcasting as it does not at first appear like a threat. The domestic materials also allude to the idea that these radio and television broadcasts are ever-present intruders in Chinese households, creating a tense and fearful tone to the piece as it subverts the idea that you are safe from a governments power in your home.

(Beijing Central Radio and Television Broadcasting Tower)

Iris Van Herpen

Iris Van Herpen (b. 1984) is a Dutch fashion designer however I want to focus on her textile design as Van Herpen’s use of technology and especially, 3D printing has revolutionized the modern fashion world. Van Herpen is inspired greatly by natural structures and movement translating this into inventive and artistic designs. The above designs are from her Spring 2019 Haute Couture collections inspired by the concept of ‘Cybrids’ (mixing human and plant/animal cells through science) and how the female body has been used throughout world history to create mythical creates like mermaids and Goddesses. The designer created both of the above designs by using 3D printing. This allowed her to created exciting, sheer tulle-like fabrics from glass and acrylic that through its intricate cut outs that could only be achieved through computer programming to convey a sense of motion resembling waves as the model walks. Similarly the design the futuristic, textile used on the second design creates a constant, motion through the animated, dark lines printed to create flower petals- reflecting the plant blowing in the wind. I really loved how Van Herpen has modernised textile design to create these other worldly creations.

Hussein Chalayan

Hussein Chalayan (b. 1970) is a British-Cypriot fashion designer known for utilising his fashion designs to convey an array of topics such as scientific concepts and social issues. I was particularly interested by his Autumn Winter 2000 Ready to Wear show entitled: “After Words”, inspired by his experience fleeing Cyprus as a young child after the country was invaded by Turkey. The designer created an unusual set for his models to walk on, creating a domestic, living room environment including a round table and set of chairs. Each model manoeuvred around the furniture adorned in oversized, earth-toned blazers and coats with minimalist, angular dresses, and skirts below. Many also carried large bags and cases. Chalayan cleverly used this layering of several garments to create a sense of urgency and necessity- reflecting the reality for many Cypriot refugees like his own family who were forced to leave their homes with only the belongings which they could carry. This tragic storyline carried through to the climax of the show, in which a group of models shocked the audience when they began to construct the chair coverings into sharp, angular, and grey toned dresses. The final design (as seen above) presented one model stepping into middle of a coffee table to reveal than when unfolded comprised of several circular, wooden layers creating the silhouette of a robust, knee length skirt. I found this collection really interesting as the designer was able to use his designs as a snapshot to the reality for many refugees around the world who are forcibly uprooted from their home countries and can only bring with them whatever they can carry- creating a sense of loss and alienation.